All the way south

Not too dissimilar to my last big trek in Colombia, I woke up in bed the morning after the post-trek celebrations with my head spinning and a serious thirst for water. I had once again wisely decided to treat myself to a fancy private room to recover. Besides the effect of the hangover, I was feeling a little down for other reasons - I just had a great four days on the Inca Trail, where I had good company and made some new friends, but now they were all gone. They were all on a short holiday break, and were heading back home this day or the next. I was on my own again. After finding somewhere to refuel with food, I wandered through Christmas-themed Cuzco in a melancholic hungover state, hitting up Starbucks on the main square for some caffeine and wifi to help decide where I would go next. It was the Christmas songs in Starbucks that got me. The cycle of making new friends and then saying goodbye and having to start all over again had become tiresome. I knew I wasn't enjoying sol...

Day one The first big challenge of the Inca Trail trek was packing my duffel bag that the porters would carry. I had brought a way too much crap. We had received the duffel bags at the briefing the night before, and I thought I had packed it fairly lightly, but having to squeeze the provided sleeping bag in at the start of the trail was a big challenge. I normally travel light, but this time I had definitely over-packed. The poor porters. The packing challenge took place after a comfortable three-hour pre-dawn bus journey, where I managed to get some extra sleep in. Once everyone's duffels were sealed, and we got our rented hiking sticks, at last it was time to get going. After bouncing, full of beans, across the footbridge that marks the beginning of the trail, the first gentle little uphill section was...a little too breathless for comfort. We were above 3000m, and the lack of oxygen made you feel like you hadn't walked in about a year. This would take some getting use...

A big delay in my flight to Peru gave me the unexpected opportunity to sample two completely unrelated things I had wanted to try - an Outback Steakhouse (an American chain with an Aussie theme that was randomly in Quito airport) and more Ecuadorian craft beers. The flight was delayed long enough for me to try a surprisingly delicious steak and the whole brewery range - pale ale, lager, porter and stout. The god of airports doesn't allow such fun to go unpunished however, so the compensation for my merriment was being forced to spend nine overnight hours in Jorge Chávez International in Lima. I'm not sure who decides the airport flight schedules, but I imagine whoever organizes the one for Lima is an insomniac who loves to inflict his sleepless suffering on others - so many flights there leave at ridiculous early morning hours. I landed in Lima at 9.30pm and was departing for Cuzco at 4.30am. I had to wait until 1am before I could check my bag in, so in the end I only got 1...